RTW refashion

I am slightly obsessed with this fabric: I loooove the colors, the pattern, the feel, and the fact that it doesn't wrinkle!

I found it at Target a few years ago. It was a bit too long for me and lacked shaping, but I just had to buy it for the fabric. I knew I would have to adjust it a bit, but I just didn't know how. I thought about shortening it, but the thought of cutting off some of that lovely fabric didn't sit well with me. So I decided to add elastic to the sides. The elastic added interest and allowed me to shorten it without losing any of the fabric!

KwikSew 3887 - A shiny leo

The fabric for this biketard was picked by my kiddo. She calls it her Rapunzel leotard for the colors. It's so shiny, you need sunglasses.

This is KwikSew 3887. It was so much fun to sew! It was quite straightforward; the only fiddly part was the elastic application. The golden band added an element of fun to this otherwise fairly easy sew.

Pattern: KwikSew
View: B
Size: 7?
Fabric: Pink, purple, gold shiny dancewear spandex from JoAnn.
Things I learned: 
* I am starting to tame my coverstitch machine. :)

Tilly and the Buttons - Francoise dress

Ever since the Francoise dress came out, I knew I had to sew it up! I used to have two similar A-line dresses that had French darts, and I just loved wearing them. Francoise has the same silhouette, so I knew it would be a winner!

You see, at times, I used to fall in love with a pattern, only to find out that sewn up, it didn't really flatter my figure. The more I sew, the better I get about only buying patterns that I know will work for me, but every now and then I still make mistakes. I knew that Francoise would NOT be a mistake.

Going by my measurements, I thought I would need a size 4. When I sewed it up, it came out a bit big, so next time, I will go down to a size 3. (Later, when I made Coco, I also confirmed that size 3 allowed it to hang comfortably on my body but not be too baggy.)

For the fabric, I decided to go with this patchy looking stretch, medium-weight denim-like fabric. I bought it years ago, and I liked it so much at the time that I bought probably 5-6 yards of it total. It was also on sale. You can use both sides of it, and I chose to use the brighter, reverse side. Looking back at the fabric now, I am not nearly as in love. In fact, I am looking at it with "What was I thinking??"

What's interesting about this fabric is that it stretches lengthwise. And because it's very very very wide, I had no trouble cutting the Francoise out on the cross grain. This means that I have tons of fabric left over to experiment with other patterns. I figured worst case scenario it would be a toile, best case scenario a wearable toile that I can wear for running errands.

I also decided to add piping to the raglan sleeve line. That looked cute, but didn't turn out to be very comfortable. So next time, I will omit it.

I might fiddle with making the neckline a bit more open, but otherwise I just love this exaggerated A-line silhouette.

Just like the Coco, I can see myself making the Francoise over and over and over. It would look smashing in a little black dress version or in a brocade; any fabric that has some structure.

Pattern: Tilly and the Buttons - Francoise
View: Sleeveless view, without the front placket.
Size: 4, 3
Fabric: Pink patchy stretch fabric (kind of like medium-weight denim from JoAnn. Navy piping.
Things I learned: 
* I am now certain that size 3 is the highest I should go in Tilly and the Buttons patterns.
* I think next time, I will add 1 inch in length at the hem.
* Note to self: don't add piping.

Simplicity 8212 - Fleece leggings

Not fancy sewing, just something useful: I made fleece leggings to go along with the fleece dresses both for my Mom and myself. They keep us warm and cozy this winter.

I made a toile to test the fit for the leggings, and both for my Mom and myself, I had to make simple but quite a few adjustments (see below) in the pattern.

The dress and pants have become a winter staple in my wardrobe, and they are in constant rotation.

Pattern: Simplicity 8212
View: A (mid-rise)
Size: M, L
Fabric: black no-pill fleece

Things I learned:
* I had to make quite a few adjustment to the fit. This seems to be the case for me for Simplicity pants patterns: they tend to be too short in the center back and too high in the center front. I added 1 and 1/2 inches to the back and removed the same amount from the front, connecting both sides to the original side-seam length.

*I also used the size S cutting line at the bottom of the legs to shorten the length, because the toile that I had made was too long.

* Because the fleece is not quite as stretchy as the activewear fabrics this pattern was designed for, I decided to serge only a 1/4 inch seam allowance at the side seams of each leg and at the crotch seam. I left the 5/8 seam allowance where the waistband joins the pant legs. I probably could have gotten away with a little bit of a snugger fit, but I didn't want to risk them turning out not stretchy enough.

* I constructed these pants almost exclusively on the serger. I did use my sewing machine to hem the pants. I hemmed them flat. If there is one thing I really don't like fiddling with is hemming small circumferences in the round. And I sewed in the elastic with a zigzag stitch. (I don't know about you, but my sewing machine does not like zigzag stitches on stretchy things like elastic or swim- and activewear: it always skips stitches. I need to figure out why. I use stretch needles on those, which helps, but it's still not great....)

Tilly and the Buttons - Coco dress

This dress has been in the plans for a long time. Pretty much ever since it came out.

Like many others, I love everything about the Coco dress: the silhouette, the versatility -- everything about it. Especially the silhouette. Nothing looks better on me than an A-line silhouette.

A few months ago, I decided to buckle down and make a test version of the Coco dress out of a knit I had in my stash. This test fabric stretches but has virtually no recovery and easily gets holes in it from the needle. I was worried about attempting even a test garment out of it, because I had made a top from this fabric before, and I got lots of holes in the fabric along the seams, and especially at the top stitching -- neither ball point nor stretch needles worked. Thanks to a helpful suggestion on PatternReview.com, a Microtex needle finally worked.  AND with the Microtex needle, the test Coco dress turned out to be a VERY wearable toile! Love it when that happens! I made a size 4, which turned out to be bigger than what I needed, but it's totally wearable and I get a ton of use out of it: I wear it multiple times a week. The only thing I changed was: I decided to put the funnel neck seam at center back. I also realized that the dress looked better on me sans pockets.

In the picture, I still have the pockets on (excuse the loose serger threads which when the photo was taken hadn't been tucked in). I later removed the pockets and moved the buttons to the sleeve cuffs.

The sewing process of the Coco dress was such a pleasure! I find that some patterns are not drafted as accurately as they could be. This is definitely NOT the case with the Coco dress: the Coco goes together so easily. All seams match PERFECTLY. Sewing the Coco dress is like sewing meditation. It just makes me so happy to have found Tilly and the Buttons' patterns: Tilly's instructions and patterns bring me such joy. I made a test of the Delphine skirt (from her first book Love at First Stitch): wow! Now, I just look forward to seeing new patterns from Tilly. Tilly's patterns can be assembled with such ease. I love that sewing her patterns is stress free! Thank you, Tilly and the Buttons!

I decided I would make a smaller size of the Coco dress next time.

Now....  I often think to myself that I would love to wear more dresses. However, in the winter especially, I almost exclusively wear pants, because I am always cold. So I decided that this would change now that I know the Coco dress.

I bought a nice red no-pill fleece for my fleece Coco, and I followed the same directions; put the funnel neck seam at center back, omitted the pockets, and put teal buttons on the funnel neck and on the sleeves. I did use a narrower seam allowance on the side and under the sleeves for the fleece version. This dress feels like I am wearing a blanket, except it looks more stylish. :)

My sewing machine was not quite as thrilled as I was about sewing layers and layers of fleece, so I decided to give it a break and not bother with top stitching close to the funnel neck. The sewn and serged seam allowances seem to be heavy enough to stay together and turned down where they should be.

I plan to make black fleece pants to go with my fleece dress for extra cold winter days.

Pattern: Tilly and the Buttons Coco dress
Size: 4, then 3
Fabric: cotton knit, then no-pill fleece
Things I learned: 
* I thought I was a size 4 in Tilly and the Buttons' sizing, but even for the fleece, I found, I could go down to a 3. For a lighter knit, I might even try a 2 next time.
* I put the funnel neck seam at center back.
* The pockets don't look as good on me as the plain version.
* The Coco dress easily lends itself to decorations on the funnel neck and sleeves.
* For the Fleece version, I used a serged 1/4 inch seam allowance for the sides and underarm seams. This gave me a little extra room to put a T-shirt and pants under it for the winter.

I even made a dark red fleece Coco with white buttons for my Mom, with black fleece pants, so she will stay nice and toasty, too, this winter. (More about the fleece pants in another post.)

Simplicity 1903 - View B

Today, I made Simplicity 1903 view B. The pattern is by Whimsy Couture. The patterns is so well drafted, it went together so easily.

I cut a few corners by using a serger to finish edges: the ruffles are serged and turned under, same as the internal edge of the elastic+tie casing. I also serged the exposed seam allowances on the inside.

Living in "Style In An Instant" dress all summer

At first I thought that the short version of the Style In An Instant dress would not look good on me, given that I am fairly short, but I have found it quite comfortable to wear, and it has been my most worn dress this summer.

I wear it with a cardigan and capri leggings if it's cold.

"Style In An Instant" dresses -- long dress

When I don't have much time to sew, this is my go-to project to get at least a tiny little bit of sewing accomplished:

• All I need is my bust measurement, add 2 inches, and I know the length of shirred fabric I need. I get my fabric for this from JoAnn; it's called Style In An Instant. I tend to choose the cotton versions, not the rayons, because the cottons don't wrinkle as much.
• And since I don't wear strapless dresses and tops, I also buy or find some rick rack in my stash to complement the dress. Easy peasy straps in an instant. :) I do seal the ends of the rick rack straps with a little heat.
• Before I start sewing, I serge the edges of the fabric so they don't ravel.
• If I have time, I prewash the fabric.
• The entire sewing is accomplished by a single seam in the back. I sometimes hem the skirt part if the selvages aren't particularly nice. The additional hem also gives the skirt more body, and I find that the skirt doesn't wrinkle as much in the wash if there is a hem.  

Pattern: None, just bust measurement + 2 inches.
Fabric: Style In An Instant shirred fabric form JoAnn, rick rack (I tend to like the wider ones).
Things I learned: Do take your time to finish the edges securely, because you don't want the shirring to come undone in the wash or as you wear it.

Please excuse the wrinkles in the picture; it just came out of the wash (and this one has no hem)...

Another 30-minute blankie

My blog has been a bit neglected... (ehem) for a few years... And even though sometimes I feel that I hardly made anything, it doesn't mean that I have not been sewing. So it's time to document the things I made. :)

Here is another 30-minute blankie. The first one was in blue.

30-minute blankie

Instant gratification :)

Ingredients:
1 yd of soft fleece
Thread

Process:

1. Straighten edges, cut off selvage.
2. Right sides together, sew around 3 sides using a narrow zigzag stitch, leave a bit of an opening on one side. (Not at a corner.)
3. Turn right side out through opening.
4. Slipstitch the opening closed by hand.
5. Topstitch all around 1 in from the edge with narrow zigzag (start on a side and not at a corner).

DONE!

Apron

I copied this apron from a RTW one a friend of mine had. It has adjustable ties. The height is adjustable, because the ties are not attached to the apron, but go through a tunnel.

Things I learned:

• I used bias tape for the facing, which turned out to be a mistake, because it was very hard to mold it into shape and especially turn it under at the ends.
• I also used bias tape for the ties, which was OK, but not very easy to sew, as the bias stretched.

Alterations, refashions

The main sewing that I did in the past few weeks was alterations-related.

1. I shortened a green summer dress that I had bought in the summer.

2. Did the same with a pair of dark gray dress pants.

3. I took in at the side seams from a salmon colored T-shirt. I love the color, but the width of the T-shirt was very much out of proportion. I simply serged it to be narrower. In the process, I figured out that because the shoulder seam was also a little bit hanging onto my arm, I should have just taken a nice T-shirt I like and used that to re-draft this one, but I didn't have the energy to do that. Still, it's better now.

4. The most interesting project has been a long-sleeve RTW T-shirt. The T-shirt had a boatneck, which I normally love, but this one was gaping especially in the front. Not a great look...

I am not sure whether the gaping was caused by a poor pattern or the stretchy fabric with little recovery. Apart from the gaping, there was also the problem of the neck edge turning outwards, exposing the inside of the seam.

In addition, the top's boatneck was opening too wide at the shoulders.

I tried zig-zag stitching see-through elastic to the neckline. It helped the outward turning neckline, but not the gaping. So I ripped out the elastic.

I decided to add some interest to the neckline using a hand-stitched scallop hem. This gave it a nice look and stopped the neckline from rolling out. But it didn't stop the gaping.

I added buttons (no buttonhole, just buttons) at the shoulders to hold the front and back more together. This helped the shoulders, but the gaping was still there in the front...

Then I decided to use the excess fabric from the gaping neckline as a design element, and I added a few more buttons.

In the pictures, you can see the final outcome. Much better!



Edited:
Today, I changed the direction of the pleat, and it makes the fabric lie smoother on the body. Took another picture.

(I am not sure why the image insists on showing sideways...)

Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson - overalls with feet

This is the second garment I sewed from the book Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson. I chose this pattern, because DS always pulls off his socks. This overall has feet, as well as snaps for easy diaper changing.

In this one, instead of hammering the snaps, I decided to go with what Kristy suggested: snap tape. Thanks for the comment, Kristy! :)

I also applied Tulip Slick Paint to the feet. Thanks for the tutorial, Cheri! I used dots, as Cheri mentioned that the continuous lines crack in the wash. We haven't tried on the pants yet, so don't know how it works for us, but it seems like a very cool idea, and inexpensive to make. This was my first time using Tulip Paint, so my dots are not perfect. Plus I may need to put more dots on the soles for better grip.

Pattern: Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson
Size: L 6-12 m (comes in XS, S, M, L, XL sizes)
Fabric: stretch knit
Things I learned:

• I used a soft knit fabric for these pants, but it was very difficult to work with. it was very stretchy, and I couldn't use my walking foot, as I had to sew so close to the snap tape. The fabric of the snap tape, and the fabric of the pants really didn't like each other (even though I put fusible interfacing on the fabric). The result therefore is a little sloppier than what I normally like. :( But have taken this apart so many times, that I just have to call it done.
  
• I had the hardest time figuring out how to add the snap tape so that the edges turn properly. I thought I had it figured out, but it still looks a bit weird. The instructions talk about applied snaps, but not snap tape.
  
• If I sew with this fabric again (I still have quite a bit left over), I'll chose a pattern that can be put together entirely with a serger. :)

Kippkopp

There is a story (actualyl several stories by the same author, Veronika Marék) about a chestnut boy called Kippkopp. I grew up reading Kippkopp stories, and now I read them to my DS, who I am happy to see, loves them as much as I did. Because he likes this character so much I decided to make one out of fabric for him.

I drafted the pattern myself, and made two, I guess you'd call them "muslins," refining the proportions.

If I were to make this now, I think I'd shorten the legs and arms a little bit more.

Also, because I wanted to make this figurine as close to what he looks like in the books as possible, I added a fabric piece as neck, which, even though I sewed a straw inside for reinforcement, still makes the head and body a bit wobbly. If I were to make this now (or again), I'd maybe use the shell of an old pen and try to sew that inside to give the neck some rigidity.

Otherwise, I really like the result, and so does DS, which is what's most important!

Doggie from Sewing Green by Betz White

I found this doggie adorable in Betz White's book, Sewing Green. I copied out the pattern onto tissue paper, then enlarged it to 133% on a photocopier, as the book suggests.

I used a terrycloth diaper changing pad cover for the body. The cover never fit the changing pad we have, do this was a perfect way to refashion it into something useful.

I bought a fat quarter of solid red and one of the brown patterned material for the ears, tail, nose, and spot.

I embroidered the eyes with black perle cotton. Added a French knot (as described in the book) of white perle cotton for the glistening in the eyes.

I stitched around one eye and the dot in red perle cotton.

Fairly easy project, and the result is sooooo cute!

Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson - bib pants with vertical seam

Snaps attached.

1/2 in bias tape facing.

1/4 in elastic and casing; adjustable straps.

There are lots of baby clothes patterns in the book Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson. I chose the bib-pants pattern with a vertical seam down the front and elastic in the back.

Some of the patterns in this book have a retro feel to it, while others look more modern.

Since I hadn't tried out any of these patterns before, I chose an old sweatshirt for fabric. The collar of the sweatshirt had holes in it, but the rest of the fabric feels great.

Pattern: Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby by Kerstin Martensson
Size: L 6-12 m (comes in XS, S, M, L, XL sizes)
Fabric: old sweatshirt (cotton knit)

Things I learned:

• While I hadn't had much success with refashioning up until now, I have now proven to myself that I can actually do it.
• Interfacing the facing doesn't always work on baby clothes; even a light-weight interfacing makes it too still for baby clothes.
• A 0.6 cm seam allowance is plenty for baby clothes.
• Note to self: I almost messed up these pants, because I cut both sides on the same side of the fabric, instead of mirror images. I saved it by making one side on the reverse and the other on the right side of the fabric, and followed the same with the straps, thus making it part of the design, BUT if it hadn't been a baby garment, I probably wouldn't have been able to get away with that.
• Applying snaps using a pencil eraser, a wooden cuttingboard, soft fleece, and a hammer is VERY time consuming. Not to mention, hard on one's fingers, because no matter how much you try to use the eraser to get the prongs to go through the fabric, sometimes, you can achieve better results with your fingers, but after applying 22 snaps, they do start hurting....
  

Men's flannel shirt (Simplicity 4760)

Pattern: Simplicity 4760
View: A
Size: S (sizes S-XL)
Fabric: Flannel

Things I learned:

• I could have made it even smaller: the shoulder comes too low and the sleeve is too long.
• I should also have clipped the seam allowances smaller and/or graded them to reduce bulk in corners.
• I am proud of how I matched the plaid at the pocket.

Follow-up post to: Small refashions and adjustments

This is a follow-up post to: Small refashions and adjustments

Jo asked how I did the shortening of the sleeves on the white striped blouse.

So here it is: This below picture shows what the sleeve looked like.

I studied how the cuff was attached, measured the pleats, then removed the cuff, and cut the rest of the sleeve to the right length.

After that, I reattached the cuff.

I paid close attention to making the pleats the right size.

Sandra Betzina

I am always looking for what Sandra Betzina is going to come up with next.

I have read all of her books on sewing, have enjoyed her articles in Threads magazine, seen her sample webshows, and I recently checked out her DVDs from the library. I think these DVDs are my favorites. I like the ones that are made by just her alone, as well as the ones co-hosted with others, like Ron Collins (like Sandra Betzina does, he shares some excellent sewing techniques as well; their co-hosted DVDs are both funny and very informative).

You can check out the DVDs here:
http://www.powersewing.com/books-dvds/dvds/
There are also short previews of them!

In addition, let me share my favorite fly sewing technique by Sandra Betzina:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt008.asp

And a duvet cover technique:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pdf/Duvetcover.pdf

Handy links

Today, I am posting some of my favorite sewing links. I collected these a few years ago when I first started sewing.

Fly zipper
Bias tape edging
Corduroy
Decorative dressform covers
Easy bound buttonholes
Fix a buttonhole
Gridded wrapping paper for pattern drafting
Hemming solutions
How to sew a French seam
How to sew a good seam
How to sew on cording
How to use the narrow hemmer foot
Invisible zipper
Lining a pleated skirt
Machine sewn blind hem
Making belts
Hemming pants
Measuring for hemming pants
Pattern alteration
Patterns adjustments
Quick bindings
Real Simple magazine
Sew a bead behind a button for a clean finish
Sewing in a zipper